Sport climbing has been a hit at the Olympic Qualifier Series Shanghai with bumper crowds for every event so far, and things were no different for the speed qualification on Friday (17 May).
First up was the women’s competition, which did not feature Polish world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw and reigning world champion Emma Hunt of the USA, both of whom have already secured an Olympic quota.
In warm but shaded evening conditions at Huangpu Riverside OQS Urban Park, Miroslaw’s compatriot Aleksandra Kalucka secured top spot on the OQS qualification leaderboard with a time of 6.55 seconds, and passage into the 1/8 finals tomorrow (18 May).
The quiet, still crowds of the bouldering and lead competitions were long gone by the time local climber Zhou Yafei took to the wall, who received the biggest roars of the day for finishing second.
Elsewhere, Indonesia’s 2023 Asian Games bronze medallist Rajiah Sallsabillah also made the list of 16 qualifiers.
The men’s start list did not feature Frenchman Bassa Mawem, who had already secured a quota for his home Games at Paris 2024.
But the crowd certainly didn’t miss out as Wu Peng blasted to the fastest time of qualifying on his first attempt in 4.94s. Knowing that this would likely be enough to progress, he pushed harder on his second run, but slipped and smiled as he was hoisted down to cheers from the crowd.
It was a great day for Indonesia, who sealed second, third, and fifth place through former world record holder Veddriq Leonardo, Kiromal Katibin, and Raharjati Nursamsa, respectively.
Men’s Asian Games champion and another former world record holder, Reza Alipour Shezandifard from Islamic Republic of Iran, will also return tomorrow after securing ninth place.

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